Where to eat and sleep in moorish Sicily
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Loading... - BLANCA CORDOVA
- 09 Oct 2020
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Beautiful Sicily is separated from Italy’s mainland by the narrow Strait of Messina, but it feels wilder, more remote. Touched by three seas and blessed with diverse vistas — from rugged coastlines, crumbling castles and Greek ruins to farmland, citrus groves, vineyards and seascapes where volcanic islands glow with lava in the middle of an azure sea — it’s an island that leaves few unmoved and many who visit it utterly smitten.
If ever there was a place that should be experienced through your stomach, it’s Sicily. Volcanic Mount Etna provides rich soil for the island’s produce, such as thick-skinned lemons and grapes for wine, while its seas yield abundant seafood. The cuisine is wonderful, from grilled sardines to specialities such as caponata (eggplant stew) and cassata (a sponge, ricotta and marzipan dessert). With the Arab invasion of AD965 came saffron, almonds, dates and a taste for sweets: breakfast in Sicily always starts with citrus cakes and fruit tarts.
In Sicily, the respect for food is universal, whether it’s fritters eaten in the street or a two-Michelin-starred degustation at Ragusa’s Ristorante Duomo. From breakfasts of cakes to handmade pasti in a family-run trattoria, food is the great leveller, conversation piece and passion. Be ready for a culinary journey like no other.
EAT
Maria Grammatico Pasticceria
This pastry shop in Erice is famous for cakes and marzipan, which you can eat in a beautiful courtyard garden; mariagrammatico.it.
Trattoria da Salvo
One of many Palermo restaurants offering a delicious antipasto table at lunch. Eat right on the bustling street; via Torremuzza 19, 90133, Palermo.
Wunderbar Caffè
Taormina’s landmark restaurant and cafe is certainly wonderful for the views, but the old-fashioned waiters can be abrupt; wunderbarcaffe.it.
Ristorante Majore
If you like pork products, this ancient butcher shop-turned-restaurant in Chiaramonte Gulfi is heaven. Locally reared pigs fed with acorns and fava beans are cooked on a traditional wood oven and served in a variety of ways; majore.net.
Ristorante Duomo
Renowned chef Ciccio Sultano’s seasonal menus blend tradition and innovation, and sommelier Valerio Capriotti is among the best in Europe; ristoranteduomo.it.
STAY
Baglio Donna Franca
This family-run estate in the Marsala region includes a charming hotel, restaurant and winery and has a fabulous swimming pool with views to the Tyrrhenian Sea; donnafranca.it.
La Plumeria
A sweet bed and breakfast in the old centre of the seaside village Cefalù. Sunny rooms, a lovely courtyard for breakfast and it’s only a short stroll to the beach; laplumeriahotel.it.
Case Veccie de Regaleali
Stay in the middle of the countryside in this beautiful rural estate, with lovely, homey antique rooms and the added allure of the famous Anna Tasca Lanza cooking school right on your doorstep; annatascalanza.com.
Hotel Ravesi
This boutique hotel is housed in a restored 19th-century whitewashed farmhouse in the village of Malfa on Salina, one of the Aeolian islands. lt features pretty terraced gardens, an infinity pool, wonderful cooking and magnificent views across to Stromboli island; hotelravesi.it.
Charme Hotel Henry’s House
This slightly eccentric and but delightful family-run hotel is situated in a beautiful old palazzo right on the harbour at Ortygia, on Syracuse. The home-cooked breakfast is sensational; hotelhenryshouse.com.
