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Spaghetti with cod's roe

In a tangle: spaghetti with cod’s roe. Photograph: Romas Foord for the Observer

Serves 4
spaghetti 400g 
garlic 2 cloves, peeled
dried red chilli 1
smoked cod’s roe 130g 
parsley a few sprigs
sea salt
extra-virgin olive oil

Bring a large pot of salted water to the boil and drop in the spaghetti. Roughly chop the parsley – include some stalk. Finely slice the chilli. Remove the skin from the roe and break up into smaller pieces.

Heat 2 tbsp of oil with the cloves of garlic. Fry over a moderate heat, turning every so often until the garlic is a deep golden colour on all sides, but not blackened in any way. Discard the garlic and replace in the oil with the chilli and parsley. Turn off the heat. Add the roe and a ladle of pasta water. Use a fork to help it melt together, creating a thick sauce.

With the pasta nicely al dente, reserving another cup of water, drain and add to the sauce. Turn and turn again, this is easiest using tongs, adding some of the water and extra oil as you need it. Serve on warmed dishes.

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