‘It’s all about freedom and adventure’: five of the best bikepacking routes in Scotland
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Loading... - Lucas Moreau
- 24 May 2023
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A cyclist who completed a global circumnavigation reveals that Scotland stands out due to its unparalleled freedom and accessibility, not just because of its picturesque rolling hills and rugged coastline. Markus Stitz, the adventurer who achieved the remarkable feat of circling the world on a single-speed bicycle in 2016, emphasizes that Scotland's access rights, which turned 20 this year, have made wild camping legal and sparked a surge in the popularity of bikepacking.
After returning to his long-standing residence in Edinburgh, Stitz founded Bikepacking Scotland and gained extensive knowledge of Scotland's B-roads and forest tracks. According to him, the allure of bikepacking lies in the sense of freedom and adventure it offers. In his recently published book, "Bikepacking Scotland," Stitz presents 20 thrilling expeditions. Let's explore five of the finest bikepacking routes Scotland has to offer.
Ayrshire Alps, Coast, and Castles
Covering a distance of 81.6 miles, this loop in southwestern Scotland traverses the Galloway and Southern Ayrshire Unesco Biosphere. Stitz describes Ayrshire as a region characterized by lush, undulating hills, distinct from the more remote and intimidating landscapes found in Scotland. The route commences and concludes at Ayr railway station, roughly an hour's train ride from Glasgow. It follows a backroad to Alloway, the birthplace of the renowned poet Robert Burns, then ventures into the hills and moorlands before returning along the west coast. The panoramic views extend over the Atlantic, including breathtaking sights of Ailsa Craig, a sanctuary for seabirds, and the Mull of Kintyre. Along the way, the trail passes by Culzean Castle, an 18th-century architectural masterpiece by Robert Adam dramatically perched on a cliff, as well as the coastal village of Dunure, famous for its appearance in the TV series Outlander, before reaching Ayr. Stitz highlights the remarkable hospitality of the locals and the sheer beauty of certain sections along this route. To extend the adventure, riders can continue south to Galloway Forest Park, where hundreds of kilometers of gravel trails await exploration.
John Muir Way Bikepacking Route
The John Muir Way stretches 134 miles from the west coast town of Helensburgh to Dunbar on the east coast. This trail, named after John Muir, the renowned conservationist and "father of national parks," provides an excellent introduction to bikepacking for beginners. Stitz recommends breaking the journey into stages due to convenient access to various parts of the route through public transportation. Combining cultural history with natural beauty, the path departs Helensburgh, passing by Charles Rennie Mackintosh's Hill House and ascending Gouk Hill, which offers panoramic vistas of Loch Lomond and the Trossachs National Park. The Campsie Fells serve as a backdrop to Glengoyne distillery during a section shared with the West Highland Way. As the journey continues, cyclists encounter notable landmarks such as the Falkirk Wheel, the only rotating boat lift globally, and the 19th-century Avon aqueduct. Approaching central Edinburgh, the route follows the east coast until reaching Dunbar.
Highland Perthshire Drovers Trail
Scotland's history includes a rich tradition of droving, the practice of herding livestock from the Highlands to the Lowlands for sale in market centers. Stitz compares bikepacking to droving, acknowledging that while off-road riding can be challenging, the rewards are extraordinary. The 205-mile loop begins in Pitlochry, a Victorian tourist town, and traces ancient gravel drove roads. It first heads north toward Cairngorms National Park before curving around to the picturesque Glen Tilt valley, eventually reaching the banks of Loch Tay and the heather moorland near Ben Chonzie. The trail provides a vivid sense of the transition between the Highlands and the Lowlands, passing through Comrie and Crieff before returning to Pitlochry via Dunkeld and Craigvinean Forest. Whisky enthusiasts will appreciate the inclusion of two notable distilleries, Edradour and Glenturret, the latter being one of Scotland's oldest.
Wild About Argyll Trail
Stitz describes the landscape in Argyll as remarkably diverse, encompassing native woodlands, temperate rainforests, and a constant presence of water. This 420-mile epic along the west coast showcases the region's abundance. Commencing in Helensburgh, the route leads westward to explore the scenic Cowal and Kintyre peninsulas. Highlights include the gravel paths of Argyll Forest Park and a section through Puck's Glen, a captivating deep gorge. A ferry from Portavadie to Tarbert allows riders to continue along the Kintyre Way, providing stunning views of the Kilbrannan Sound and the Isle of Arran. The trail continues up the extreme west coast, passing Knapdale, where the UK's first official beaver reintroduction took place, and offering breathtaking vistas of Islay and Jura before reaching Oban. The return journey to Helensburgh passes by picturesque lochs Avich, Awe, and Fyne. Stitz draws a parallel between this route and the landscapes found in New Zealand, remarking on Argyll's perpetually green appearance and its absence of glaciers.
Go East Lothian Trail
Just a half-hour train ride from Edinburgh lies North Berwick, home to the Scottish Seabird Centre, the starting point of this relatively short yet scenic 39-mile loop. Stitz highlights the family-friendly nature of this route, with its fairly flat terrain—almost as flat as it gets in Scotland, comparable to the Netherlands—and excellent accessibility. The trail offers breathtaking views of Bass Rock, housing the largest northern gannet colony in the world. Drift Cafe, situated atop a cliff edge above Canty Bay, provides an ideal vantage point. A short distance away, the ruins of Tantallon Castle stand as a testament to Scotland's history. Other notable attractions along the route include the golden sands of Tyninghame beach, anti-tank barriers at Hedderwick Sands, and the stunning red sandstone formations of Dunbar. The trail encompasses a delightful combination of coastal and countryside scenery, with playgrounds and nature exploration spots readily available for families.
To truly appreciate the beauty and adventure these bikepacking routes offer, Markus Stitz invites you to embark on these exhilarating journeys across Scotland. Experience the freedom, embrace the authenticity, and savor the natural wonders that await you.
